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Finding Your Park in Your Own Backyard #10…Trail of Tears State Park, an Old Mill, and Cherokee Brown Bean Bread

03 Sunday Jul 2016

Posted by slvrhawk2014 in Breads, Find Your Park, Food, Missouri, Photography, Travel

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Breads, Find Your Park, Food, Missouri, photography, Travel

  • Adventure #9-The Trail of Tears National Historic Trail
  • Destination #2-Bollinger Mill State Historic Site
  • Destination #3-Trail of Tears State Park

In my last blog, posted on May 31, 2016, I introduced readers to the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail. The trail was established in 1987, as a memorial to the suffering of so many Native Americans when they were forcibly removed from their homes in the East to Indian Country, the area we now call Oklahoma. The trail runs through our home state of Missouri, from the Mississippi River in eastern Missouri to the Missouri-Arkansas border on the far western side of the state. We can actually walk in their footsteps, over the same paths they traveled. The trail serves as a reminder of a sad chapter in American history…one the likes of which we can never repeat.

Our next stops take us to Bollinger Mill State Historic Site and Trail of Tears State Park, both of which are on the Trail of Tears, as we continue to visit the National Park sites in “our own backyard”.

Bollinger Mill State Historic Site

Bollinger Mill

Bollinger Mill

In 1800, a man named George Bollinger moved, with a large group of his relatives, from North Carolina to a spot on the Whitewater River in southeastern Missouri. Bollinger built a mill on the site, while the twenty other families in the group built farms along the Whitewater, the Little Whitewater, and the Castor Rivers.

Over the years, a total of three mills have stood at the site.  During the Civil War, the mill was burned by the Union Army to prevent the Confederates from obtaining flour or meal from its operation. Following the war, the mill was rebuilt with brick on top of the stone foundation that had survived the fire. Bollinger Mill went out of business in 1953.

When the Cherokee people were moved through the area, the disbursing agent, John Reynolds, purchased supplies at Bollinger’s Mill. In front of the mill, in the picnic area, you will find an interpretive sign showing copies of receipts itemizing those purchases.

The Burfordville Bridge over the Whitewater River.

The Burfordville Bridge over the Whitewater River.

Next to the mill you will see the Burfordville Covered Bridge. It was built in 1858, and is the oldest of only four covered bridges that still remain in Missouri today. It is 140 feet long and spans the Whitewater River.

The picnic area at Bollinger Mill State Historic Site.

The picnic area at Bollinger Mill State Historic Site.

If you visit the mill today, you will find displays that explain the work of the mill during its many years of operation. You can walk across the bridge, which is now closed to motor vehicles. While walking across the bridge, see if you can find the plastic owl mounted on the ceiling. My husband and I are still wondering why it is there. And when you are done seeing the sites, you can enjoy a pleasant, and peaceful picnic lunch in a beautiful grove of trees along the water’s edge.

To learn more about the mill and the covered bridge, visit their website http://www.mostateparks.com/park/bollinger-mill-state-historic-site.

Trail of Tears State Park

The Mississippi River at Trail of Tears State Park

The Mississippi River at Trail of Tears State Park

Another view of the river as we explored the park.

Another view of the river as we explored the park.

We visited Trail of Tears State Park, just north of Jackson, Missouri, on a beautiful, sun-drenched day in June. It was cooler than a typical summer day in Missouri, so we took a few short walks enjoying the bird song and the summer flora in the park.

But Trail of Tears is also a haunting reminder of the tragic journey of the Civilized Tribes. Just across from the park, on the Illinois side of the Mississippi River is one of the two places the Trail of Tears entered the river to cross into Missouri on the way west to Indian Country.

The Visitor Center has displays about the Trail of Tears and an informative movie on what it was, and why it happened. It is the same movie we saw at Meramec Spring Park, but it was certainly worth a second viewing.

After crossing the Mississippi River, some of the Cherokees camped at Moccasin Springs, which is in Trail of Tears State Park.

After crossing the Mississippi River, some of the Cherokees camped at Moccasin Springs, which is in Trail of Tears State Park, as depicted in this display in the Visitor Center.

A boardwalk takes you to a beautiful view of the Mississippi, and a look back into history.

The sign you see as you approach the boardwalk speaks of Louis Joliet and Father Jacques Marquete who passed by this place sometimes just after July 4, 1673, in canoes on the river. The purpose of their journey was to explore and determine the course of the Mississippi River.
The sign you see as you approach the boardwalk speaks of Louis Joliet and Father Jacques Marquete who passed by this place sometimes just after July 4, 1673, in canoes on the river. The purpose of their journey was to explore and determine the course of the Mississippi River.
This boardwalk takes you to a panoramic view of the Mississippi River.
This boardwalk takes you to a panoramic view of the Mississippi River.
The view along the boardwalk is stunning. This is sumac, and just beyond it is the view of the river.
The view along the boardwalk is stunning. This is sumac, and just beyond it is the view of the river.
At the end of the boardwalk you will be looking across the Mississippi River to the Illinois shoreline, from which many Cherokee crossed into Missouri.
At the end of the boardwalk you will be looking across the Mississippi River to the Illinois shoreline, from which many Cherokee crossed into Missouri.
There are stunning views of the river in which ever direction you look.
There are stunning views of the river in which ever direction you look.

As we were leaving the park, we visited the Bushyhead Memorial. When ice began to mount up on the river, the crossings were halted for a time. Those who had already crossed, camped in the December cold, waiting for the remainder of their group to join them. They were under the leadership of Reverend Jesse Bushyhead. His sister, Nancy Bushyhead Walker Hildebrand, died during that cold winter, and she was buried in the park. The memorial was placed in the park to honor her life, as well as the lives of all the Cherokee who lost their lives along the Trail of Tears.

The Bushyhead Memorial

The Bushyhead Memorial

Our National Parks are a national treasure. We find in them relaxation, renewal, a call to nature, and sometimes we are called to recall our national history…the good and the bad, the joyous and the tragic. The Trail of Tears National Historic Trail is one of those park sites that should make us stop and think, to reflect on some of our past that is not so heroic, not so commendable. But in so doing, we should not despair, but we should look forward, and pledge to do better, to learn from our mistakes, to become a better people, to make this an even better nation.

You can learn more about Trail of Tears State Park at their website, http://www.mostateparks.com/park/trail-tears-state-park.

Cherokee Brown Bean Bread

DSCN1760 (3)

I found this bean bread on a site that featured Cherokee Indian recipes, and adapted it slightly. It is delicious, and makes a perfect meal when served with a big fresh salad, a big pat of butter, and a glass of white wine. Enjoy!

Cherokee Brown Bean Bread

  • 1 cup cornmeal
  • 1 cup flour
  • 2 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 Tbsp. sugar
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup melted shortening
  • 1 beaten egg
  • 2 Tbsp. honey
  • 2-15 oz. cans pinto beans

Preheat your oven to 450 degrees, and put a greased cast iron frying pan in to get it nice and hot.

Drain all the liquid off the beans.

Mix all the ingredients except the beans thoroughly. Fold in the drained beans.

Pour into the hot skillet and bake for about 30 minutes, until golden brown, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Enjoy!

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Finding Your Park In Your Own Backyard #8…Ozark National Scenic Riverways and Pretty Pinwheel Biscuits

21 Thursday Apr 2016

Posted by slvrhawk2014 in Breads, Find Your Park, Food, Missouri, Photography, Travel

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Breads, Find Your Park, Missouri, photography, Travel

Ozark National Scenic Riverways

There is no place like Missouri in the springtime, and in springtime Missouri, there is no place any more beautiful than Ozark National Scenic Riverways. So, that is where our next trip takes us as we travel to the special places in our home state that have been set aside to be protected and managed by the National Park Service.

1024px-Ozark_National_Scenic_Riverways_park_map

Deep into southern Missouri you will find a jewel of the Missouri Ozarks, the land where two crystal clear rivers, the Current and the Jacks Fork, flow to make up the Ozark National Scenic Riverways. This national park was established by Congress in 1964, and dedicated in 1971, becoming the first river system to be managed and protected by the National Park Service. The establishment of this riverways park would ensure that the two rivers would be allowed to remain in their natural state, and that they would never be dammed. And thank goodness, because they are beautiful, they are inviting, and they are invigorating…a day spent anywhere in the park will just plain put a smile on your face.

One of Missouri’s nicknames is the Cave State…for good reason. There are over 6,000 caves in the state (600 of which are in the Ozark National Scenic Riverways), and in many of these caves you will find underground rivers. The water from these underground rivers finds its way to the earth’s surface through springs, and it is from various springs that the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers get their water. This is a picture of water flowing from Big Spring into the riverways (more on this spring a little later)…

DSCN0476 (2)

A few weeks ago, Jim and I traveled to the Ozark Riverways to spend a beautiful spring day at the springs. We began our trip by visiting the park headquarters and the Visitor Center which sits atop a bluff overlooking the Current River in Van Buren, MO.

This bluff at the park headquarters overlooks the Current River.
This bluff at the park headquarters overlooks the Current River.
There is a hiking trail behind the visitor center that runs along the top of the bluff as it follows the river.
There is a hiking trail behind the visitor center that runs along the top of the bluff as it follows the river.
We had a picnic lunch under these very tall shortleaf pines.
We had a picnic lunch under these very tall shortleaf pines.

After visiting with the volunteers in the Visitor Center, we headed out on our day in the riverways. The volunteers were very helpful in suggesting some places to visit we might not have thought of. But, alas, this jewel in the Ozarks can not be taken in in one day, so we picked a few with promises to each other to return again…and again…

Our first stop took us to Big Spring, not too far south of the headquarters.

DSCN0468 (2)

Big Spring

Big Spring is Missouri’s largest spring. With an average daily flow of 286,000,000 gallons, it is one of the largest springs in the world. When you approach the spring, you are instantly taken in by its deep aquamarine color. If you would see this color on a television spot, or in a photograph, you would truly believe it was a touched-up rendition. When I first saw it, I thought it was caused by the depth of the spring. But what causes this intense aqua color is actually the minerals within the water.

We took some time to walk around the spring…

The water gushing from Big Spring as it rushes to feed into the Current River.
The water gushing from Big Spring as it rushes to feed into the Current River.
There is a trail that winds through the Big Spring Area, and at one point, goes behind the spring, and then leads up a rocky stairs to the trail atop a bluff.
There is a trail that winds through the Big Spring Area, and at one point, goes behind the spring, and then leads up a rocky stairs to the trail atop a bluff.
The Big Spring Area is visited by a wide variety of animal life. I caught a picture of this swallowtail butterfly.
The Big Spring Area is visited by a wide variety of animal life. I caught a picture of this swallowtail butterfly.

Big Spring has a visitor information center, a picnic area and a camping area. There are also cabins and a dining lodge, built by the CCC in the ’30’s which are presently closed for renovation.

Our next stop took us back north of Van Buren to Rocky Falls…

Rocky Falls

Rocky Falls

Most of the rock you will find in the Ozarks is sandstone and limestone, softer rocks which are dissolved over time by the action of water. But where you find Rocky Falls, the rock is rhyolite, which is harder and dissolves more slowly. So, this slower dissolving rock creates less space for Rocky Creek to flow, and you get this waterfall effect as it moves from one wider valley to the next. This area is called a “shut-in”. Regardless of how you explain it, it is a very pretty spot, especially in springtime, after a good rain.

While at the falls you can hear very few sounds other than the water falling over the rock, the wind rustling through the trees, and the birds in the area. It was very hard to leave this very quiet place. But…

We did move on to our next stop, Alley Spring, one of my favorite places in the state of Missouri.

Alley Spring

Alley Spring

We hiked around Alley Spring, which has an average daily flow of 81,000,000 gallons. It is a pleasant, easy trail, with many different views of the spring and the old mill, which is the focal point of the site.

The waters of Alley Spring rushing out to join the waters of the Jacks Fork River
The waters of Alley Spring rushing out to join the waters of the Jacks Fork River
On the trail, you will pass around and, sometimes, duck under large rock outcroppings.
On the trail, you will pass around and, sometimes, duck under large rock outcroppings.
And, in springtime, you will be rewarded with beautiful wildflowers, such as this Wake Robin Trillium...
And, in springtime, you will be rewarded with beautiful wildflowers, such as this Wake Robin Trillium…
this Spring Beauty...
this Spring Beauty…
some Bellwort...
some Bellwort…
and this Orange Puccoon
and this Orange Puccoon

Alley Spring was once a thriving mill town. The mill you see today at Alley Spring was built in 1894 by George Washington McCaskill. It used steel rollers for grinding wheat and corn for the residents of the community. No other buildings from the original town are still on the national park grounds.

Several years ago, Jim and I visited the Story’s Creek School, which has been moved onto the Alley Spring grounds. It is a one room school house that was used into the 1950’s.

Story's Creek School, which in 1903, had 42 students. Church services were also held in the school.
Story’s Creek School, which in 1903, had 42 students. Church services were also held in the school.
The interior of the school.
The interior of the school.

Our last stop on our trip to the Ozark Riverways was to Round Spring, which is just as the name suggests, round…and it is a very intense aqua blue. As with the other springs in the area, Round Spring maintains a water temperature between 55 and 58 degrees.

Round Spring

Round Spring

Near the spring is a wetland area where you might see birds, ducks, and other creatures who live in a wetland environment

Wood Ducks are prominent inhabitants of the wetland area.

Wood Ducks are prominent inhabitants of the wetland area.

We have come to the end of our visit to the Ozark National Scenic Riverways, and we have hardly begun to scratch the surface of the many things it has to offer. In addition to the sightseeing we did, there is canoeing, hiking, fishing, and camping available. The Current River is noted as being one of the best canoeing rivers in the country, and the Ozark Hiking Trail runs through the park. I do not think you can take in all the pleasures of this place unless you come and stay a while…we will be coming back again…and again…

You can learn more about this national park, and plan your own visit by visiting the park’s website at http://www.nps.gov/ozar/.

Pretty Pinwheel Biscuits

While we were at the visitor center for the park, I picked up a cookbook entitled Secrets of the Great Old-Timey Cooks by Barbara Swell. It is full of recipes from years ago, the ones our grandmas and great-grandmas used to make. This recipe for fancy biscuits is adapted from this book. They are pretty, and when warm, they are absolutely delicious. I cannot wait to make some of them for my grandchildren when they come to visit.

DSCN0730 (5)

Pinwheel Biscuits

  • 2 c. flour
  • 3 tsp. baking powder
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 2 Tbsp. sugar
  • 4 Tbsp. butter
  • 1 egg
  • 1/2 c. milk

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar together in a large bowl. With a pastry blender or a fork, combine the butter with the dry ingredients.

In a small bowl, beat the egg with the milk; then add to the combined mixture. You may have to add a little more milk to make a soft dough that can be rolled out.

Roll the dough into a rectangular shape about 1/4 inch thick. Cut into 3 inch squares. Cut each square diagonally from each corner to not quite the center. Then fold every other corner toward the center, as in a pinwheel. Use your thumb to close the center, leaving a large indentation.

Bake on a greased pan at 450 degrees until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Keep and eye on them so they do not burn at the pinwheel tips.

When serving, put a dollop of jam, honey butter, preserves, or anything you can think of that would make these biscuits even better, in the center of each biscuit. Serve with coffer, tea, or milk.

Enjoy!

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